Winter Sun in Morocco

Mainly to satisfy the enjoyment I get from Photography, places such as Marrakesh have always been appealing.

The earthquake in 2023 put a halt to our original plans to visit Morocco as a part of a three-centre holiday consisting of Marrakesh, the Atlas Mountains and somewhere on the coast. So it was February 2025 when we eventually made the trip with 3 nights in Marrakesh, 2 nights in Tahanaout and 3 by the sea in Essaouira.

Our flights were from Gatwick, very early in the morning. As far as the weather was concerned the forecast was for dry, warm during the day, and colder at night and first thing. Whatever, it could only be better than February in the UK.

Upon landing we were met with overcast but warm weather and it was around 11 am. Marrakesh Airport was straightforward albeit with strict security which is difficult to find fault with these days. Greeted by a Rep from the Agency and then our driver, the journey to our Riad was around 30 minutes. The driver tried calling the Riad to alert them of our arrival with the plan being that they meet us at the roadside where we would be dropped off. Our Riad wasn’t on the main road but down a few lanes which were inaccessible for vehicles. After failing to make contact with the Riad Reception our driver felt he had little option (and little English) but to drop us close as he could and point us in the direction. This he did but after walking as far as he had directed we drew a blank. No Riad!

We noticed a restaurant close by and a very helpful manager took us to a point from where we could see the Riad in front of us. We thanked him and went on our way. But this wasn’t the end of the story. When we reached the entrance the wrought-iron outer door was locked and nobody was responding to the bell. What do we do now? Fortune fell our way with a friendly young local saw that we were in a predicament and asked if he could help. I explained the situation (and his English was good) and I showed him the contact details that we had. He kindly made the call and explained how he felt about us being abandoned in this way. His assertiveness certainly worked. He found a stool for my wife to sit down on – it was now warming up – and within five minutes a moped arrived with a member of Reception from the ‘Angsana’ Riad chain to explain.

What had happened was that the original Riad we had booked was running on very low occupancy and they felt it was better to leave that closed and instead upgrade us to a suite in another in the chain just ten minutes away and, in fact, in a better location for what we wanted to do. The problem had been a breakdown in communication between the Riad and the Agency; the result being that it had also not been passed on to our Travel Agent in the UK. Anyway, a taxi was swiftly arranged to take us to the new Riad and we were successfully checked in about 40 minutes later than planned.

The Riad, regardless of our welcome upgrade, was a treasure. One of Marrakesh’s old traditional properties now serving as a very nice hotel.
With half a day still available to us, we settled in and then went for a walk to try and get our bearings for the stay whilst retaining the ability to find the Riad again later.

Leaving the quite side street behind, Marrakesh is organised chaos. It feels slightly bonkers but it works, especially for the locals. In truth, we didn’t venture too far but found a café/restaurant for a drink and the promise to return for an evening meal on one of our days.
One of the first decisions we made in Marrakesh and probably the best was to book a Walking Tour for the following morning. It was money well spent and the 3-hour guided wander around and through the maze of the Souk gave us the confidence for time on our own feeling we could find everything we wanted to see and wouldn’t get lost.

Location is everything with trips such as these and our Riad was perfectly placed to be able to walk everywhere we wanted to go.
The Souk is extensive and a major attraction in Marrakesh. It’s great fun wandering through the maze of traders and pays to explore deep into the Souk, taking some of the side alleys. And unlike some similar places we felt no pressure to buy but if you show an interest in anything be prepared to at least have a chat. And if that turns to a serious intention to buy on your part then negotiation is almost expected.

Outside the Souk it is possible to still see some restoration work being undertaken following the September 2023 earthquake but very little that currently impacts on daily lives and routines.

Other highlights for us in Marrakesh were the Main Square and Souk at night, the Bahia Palace, Koutoubia Mosque, the Secret Garden, Medersa Ben Youssef (a World Heritage site), and the people. The people in Marrakesh - and Morocco generally - were very friendly, helpful and hospitable.

After 3 days and nights in the city it was time to travel just forty minutes drive to Tahnaout in the Atlas Mountains.
It was noticeable on the journey that some of the desert was being developed with housing and roads were being improved. The properties looked far from basic and inexpensive and, when asked, our driver explained that the houses and villas were all a part of the preparation for Morocco’s part in holding the 2030 World Cup with Spain and Portugal. He also said that many are already earmarked as second homes for foreign visitors.

Within an hour of leaving Marrakesh we were checked in and settled. This part of the trip couldn’t have been more relaxing for the 2 days and nights we were there. It’s possible to visit the mountain village of Imlin from Tahnaout but we decided to just enjoy the tranquillity of the Kasbah Angour where it became apparent that we were one of only three couples at the complex which consisted of 20 rooms with lovely gardens and an outside pool.

The views from the Kasbah Angour are lovely with snow-capped mountains on one side and hilly countryside on the other with several small hamlets dotting the landscape. Very easy to recommend.

Sad to leave but excited for the last leg of our Morocco holiday. Our final destination was Essaouira, approximately 3 hours drive from Tahnaout. Visitors to Morocco’s coast tend to end up either at Agadir or Essaouira (or occasionally Casablanca). Agadir was totally destroyed in an earthquake some years ago and has been rebuilt, completely losing the vast majority of its historic architecture whereas Essaouira escaped unscathed and the old fishing port and the walled Le Medina of Essaouira is intact; a little tired and in some places distressed but still charming and intact.

Our 8 days in Morocco had been consistently warm during the day at around 21/22 degrees which, for February, we were more than happy with. Finishing on the coast felt good and again everything was within easy walking distance from the Spa Hotel we were booked into on the front, opposite the Promenade. We had a nice room with a balcony facing the sea with breakfast included (as it had been in all three places). The lunch and dinner, if required, could be taken at the associated but separate restaurant across the road, located on the Prom where the beach, specifically for the hotel residents, was also located along with beach beds, loungers and chairs - and waiter service. Nice!

Our first stroll out of the hotel took us to the Fishing Port where the boats were all in, catch unloaded and the fish already displayed on the numerous stalls all around the harbour. It was 4 pm and the distinctive Blue boats were now tethered until late at night or early morning when they would once again venture out into the Atlantic to bring back whatever they could for local consumption.

It’s a predictably aromatic market that takes place daily at the harbour side where nets are being repaired, boats are both maintained and newly built while cats and seagulls exist side by side eager for any scraps that may be cast aside on the floor.
I decided to return early morning during our stay to see the boats come in. A different scene amid different light which should allow me to take a few different photos.

In the evening we ate at the Hotel restaurant which we found to be excellent and became the ‘go to’ for lunch and or dinner while we were in Essaouira.

The following day, day 7 of 8, we took the same route along the promenade but, instead of turning left to the harbour, we turned right into Le Medina, the old, walled version of Essaouira. There is a daily market along the main avenue with traders selling everything from food to clothing. Again, no hassle, just good fun and you basically see Moroccan life going through a daily routine which happens 7 days a week.
It’s worth trying to find each of the side streets within the Medina and there is also a small section of the old walls that can be walked. There is some wonderful old architecture and colour on the historic buildings that exist.

La Medina has many places for a coffee, a beer and/or something to eat and is also lovely at night with a nice number of people and a friendly atmosphere.

We did get back to the fishing port on our last morning and, while roaming around the nets and boats on the harbourside, taking photos of the rows of Blue fishing boats, we started talking to one of the fishermen who did his best in broken English to explain how the fishing was undertaken, showing us the lines and nets. He then beckoned us into a shed where one man was building a new boat from Eucalyptus wood; busily cutting and shaping the wood and fixing it to the basic frame. Another boat in mid-production, a slightly more advanced work-in-progress, stood outside for finishing, painting, and kitting out with equipment.

Essaouira also boasts a really wide beach; providing a nice foreground for the Moroccan sunsets which were a lovely way to finish our holiday.