A Travellerspoint blog



sunny 25 °C
View Jordan - March 2019 on david.byne's travel map.

An eight day visit to the Middle East in the spring.
Jordan was our destination which, given the lack of stability in so much of that region of the world, may be stating the obvious to some.

Flying into Amman, Jordan’s capital city, we were to then move on to The Dead Sea, Petra, Wadi Rum and Aqaba before flying back to Amman to fly home.
So, Amman was our first stop. Introduced to our guide, Ibrahim, he would stay with us for the journey from Amman to Aqaba and in-between before leaving us to our own devices in Aqaba which would effectively be a couple of beach/pool days for us at the end of the trip. Ibrahim was a priceless source of information.

Amman is an interesting city. No high-rise as such so a bit of a sprawl in many ways but containing so much history within it. We took a city tour and visited their Blue Mosque and the ancient amphitheatre as well as seeing much of the everyday life going about its business.
When considering whether to go to the Middle East or not and then planning the trip it was difficult to rid ourselves completely of a slight apprehension in venturing to a part of the world that is almost landlocked within territories that have and still are experiencing such turbulent times. A couple of days in Amman helped remove that last lingering element of apprehension.

The people are friendly and so too is the climate ….. in March and April. But beware, temperatures a month or wo later can reach 50 degrees in the shade.
On our second day in Jordan’s capital city we travelled about one hour outside to the town of Jerash. Comparable to The Forum in Rome, Jerash presents an impressive area of Roman ruins that once formed the old town. Substantially complete roads and pillars leave slightly less to the imagination than does The Forum when trying to cast the mind back to what it may have looked like in its heyday.
Photographically, much of the landscape around the ruins was awash with Rapeseed when we were there, adding colour to the scenery.
Back in the city for the night we prepared to travel the following morning down to The Dead Sea. On route we stopped at Mount Nebo to take in the view. Jordan and Israel were originally combined as The Holy Land before separation and Mount Nebo is a memorial to where Moses stood looking across The Dead Sea to Israel on the other side as he neared his goal of reaching Jerusalem.
It was a short drive from here to our hotel on The Dead Sea where we spent just a single night. This was still time enough to experience floating in the water, taking in the view across to Israel and covering ourselves in the mud; you know, healing properties and all that!!
Fully rinsed, showered and dressed for dinner, the temperature was gradually warming up as we worked our way south from northerly Amman.

After breakfast on day four the road to Petra, many people’s highlight of a visit to Jordan, beckoned. It was a longish journey with a few stops (including a Crusader’s Castle at Qalat Ash Shawbak and an ancient church mosaic in Madaba) en route and Ibrahim came into his own with the history of Petra and the surrounding areas proving both informative and interesting. There was just enough time to visit Little Petra before finding our next hotel where we would stay for two nights.
The hotel in Petra was in the design of a walled village consisting of individual chalets plus the obligatory reception, dining area, pool etc etc and it made a change from the slightly more expected and predicable designs of 4 and 5 star hotels around the world.

We made an early start following an even earlier breakfast for the very short trip to Petra - deliberately early to beat the anticipated convoy of coaches that tend to arrive at a given time each day. The distance to The Registry from the main entrance is a good 25 minute walk although reined horse and horse & carriage alternatives are options for those wanting a slightly faster arrival.
To be honest, the walk is worth it if it’s not too hot because the landscape builds and sets you up for what is at The Registry and beyond. Petra is a huge site and in seven hours we didn’t see anything close to all of it but we at least felt that we did it justice in that time. Again, Ibrahim supplied the narrative to the city as we walked its roads and entered the various tombs and palaces.
There are also places to eat and drink and even a few shops to pacify most of us. Throw in a few camels (that can be hired) and one or two other surprises and Petra doesn’t disappoint; it is so much more than the photograph we have all seen.
By the time we were strolling back to the exit the temperature at Petra had warmed significantly and even at 3 pm there were visitors entering the site which closed at 5. After seven hours we had probably seen approximately 50% of what Petra had to offer.

Our next stop exploring Jordan was the movie set that is Wadi Rum. In effect a dried-up river bed with geological features seen in films such as ‘The Planet of the Apes’, ‘Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade’ and ‘Star Wars’.

Along the road towards Wadi Rum we stopped at the train featured in ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, another film shot in this area, and also a ranch keeping Arab horses.
We were then back on the road to our hotel at Aqaba, the Red Sea resort, for a couple of day’s relaxation. Apart from the hotel, the pool and the beach there was also the town of Aqaba itself, within easy walking distance of where we were staying. And so the Souk would be our first target. Several shops and Dinars later and a café stop was well-earned. The Intercontinental Hotel matched the consistently good quality of the other hotels we had stayed in while in Jordan.
The Jordanian food and drink was very good although alcohol is predictably expensive. The people were very friendly and the service we received was also very good. And we found the country to generally be a very neat and tidy place, regarded by many Jordanians as ‘the Switzerland of the Middle East’. Not for its snow-capped mountains (obviously) and lakes, nor for its economy but more for the fact that they sit in neutral isolation among the countries around it simply because it is a country without oil; a fairly unique position in the area. They feel safer as a result as, to their mind, they have little of what anybody else wants and evidence to-date would appear to support that belief.
What they do have however is a rising sense of tourism with 2018 being a record year for tourists and 2019 looking almost certain to beat it. Visiting Jordan certainly ticked our Middle East box and without massive expense. The eight days that we had and enjoyed were probably just about right. It is doubtful it will make our list of places that we want to return to but we are so pleased that we did it the once.

Posted by david.byne 12:06 Archived in Jordan Tagged landscapes sunsets_and_sunrises beaches churches buildings people birds trains architecture religion city

Email this entryFacebookStumbleUpon

Table of contents


I agree with you in many aspects! Thanks for your advice!

by Vic_IV

This blog requires you to be a logged in member of Travellerspoint to place comments.